The mood of old Edo pervades this detached, gracious home; it’s like a soba shop in an ukiyo-e woodblock print. Kenji Osame is an evangelist for buckwheat from every region. Seeking out the characteristics rooted in local topographies, he draws on them to knead juwari soba with a rich, rustic flavour. Tasting and comparing seiro soba, arabiki soba and kurobiki soba adds to the fun. Soba with ingredients such as junsai in cold broth, large nameko mushrooms and oysters add to the enjoyment. Lunches is prix fixe only; reservations are required.