The chef holds court with a simple varnished fan in one hand. He is developing his own style of yakitori even as he employs the chikabi (‘flame-approaching’) technique he studied in his apprenticeship. Skewers may be seasoned with dipping sauce or salt, depending on the cut of meat. Salt is used liberally to bring out the full character of his top-quality meat, while generous portions enhance customer satisfaction. Naturally, chicken thigh meat makes the choicest skewers.