Just a stone's throw from the covered market, this space with a pared-back decor has charm to spare, with wood and stone in perfect harmony above the nicely dressed untreated wood tables. Chef Geoffrey Poësson (trained under Roger Vergé at Le Moulin de Mougins) is quietly coming into his own, as he creates a fine modern cuisine in which vegetables and fish predominate (even if pigeon is his signature dish and lamb and beef are also served): fresh tomatoes with anchovies, marjoram velouté; roast sea bream loin, saffron-steamed belly, a bouillabaisse-style stock with the fish head and seasonal vegetables. A simpler set lunchtime menu, except in summer.