Auguste Escoffier, the first head chef at the Ritz and partner of César Ritz – the founder of the luxury hotel on Place Vendôme in 1898 – established mealtimes there as a symbol of French art de vivre. In an interior characterised by subtly muted opulence, featuring a crystal-leaf ceiling lamp creating an imaginary herbarium, it now falls to Eugénie Béziat to lead the culinary proceedings. From her glass-paned kitchen, the chef skilfully blends reminiscences of her African childhood with Mediterranean influences acquired over her culinary career. The result is both surprising and convincing, thanks to dishes that sensitively combine smoky, tangy and roasted notes. Two dazzling successes are the pressed tomato confit with rosemary and grapefruit, and the grilled lobster with a ballotine of spinach and manioc, seasoned with bissap and crushed raspberries. When it comes to dessert, François Perret's creations are a delight.