A chef who trained in several Ducasse establishments is at work in this genuine gourmet bolthole. Mathieu Lévèque creates up-to-the-minute, deceptively spontaneous cuisine in the shape of small, tapas-inspired dishes. This veteran chef has a knack with jus, sauces and spot-on cooking, illustrated by his confit of ox cheeks garnished with mushroom and celeriac gnocchis. The venue sometimes hosts musical evenings, adding a festive dimension to the venue. As it goes from strength to strength, we are likely to hear more from this boisterous kitchen.