Even just walking past this place you get a taste of the cheerful atmosphere and bonhomie that reign inside. Steaks and seafood, as well as incontrovertible French bistro classics (such as rabbit à la royale and calf sweetbreads) take pole position here. And be sure to add that extra portion of fries on the side. This indulgent cuisine is best enjoyed with your sleeves rolled up—little wonder they provide you with a napkin the size of a sheet. Proceedings are orchestrated with discreet efficiency, warmth, and good humor.