Davy Devlieghere’s menu reads like an ode to French cuisine. Premium produce like pheasant and turbot are showcased and enhanced, courtesy of last-minute craftsmanship and rich, velvety sauces. Our inspectors were treated to a sublime truffle-scented veal gravy which underscored a wondrous crunchy yet unctuous sweetbread. The chef’s delicate technique and generosity are set off by modern twists and contrasts that hit the spot every time, illustrated by briny sea lettuce and samphire, which add depth to lobster poached in a butter-laden white wine sauce. The tasteful setting mingles contemporary and authentic details, while Marie-Julie, in charge of the front of house, demonstrates her innate sense of hospitality and showwomanship, particularly in the staff’s elegant outfits – the chefs all wear an old-fashioned chef’s toque! Marie-Julie works hand in hand with a sommelier whose inspired insights, with a weakness for Burgundies, can be depended upon each time.