Mizuno is ‘a shop with good food’ but also a restaurant that never forgets the classics. Yuan’yaki, a grilled fish dish dreamed up by a tea ceremony master includes ginger and onions as ‘secret ingredients’. Partway through the meal, diners are shown the luxury ingredients they’ll soon be enjoying. Bamboo shoots in spring, sweetfish in summer, spiny lobster in autumn, crab in winter are all beautifully prepared in front of the customers. Eel and wagyu, char-grilled, is served with rice salt-and-kombu kelp butter is a clever twist and an excellent accompaniment for the rice.