Hidden away in a side street is this small and intimate restaurant which is run with infectious enthusiasm by its chef-owner – making it obvious why it’s such a hit with the locals. The split-level space includes characterful exposed beams in the upstairs dining room, while the cooking itself has an ambitious edge with roots in the county's seasonal larder. There are several menus available, from a tasting option to an à la carte, as well as fixed-price options offering good value for money.