For 20+ years, locals have been swooning over the pork knuckle rice here – ham hock braised in a marinade with spices and Chinese herbs, served with a glistening amber sauce; the peppery aftertaste is spellbinding. Steamed rice from Hualian and a julienne of crispy bamboo shoots cut through the richness. Marine fish cooked to order are also a firm favourite. Noodle lovers can't get enough of the umami-laden pork bone broth lifted by veggie sweetness.