The chef’s modern Sichuanese fare is made with ingredients from around the world: duck blood curd from Chengdu, chillies from Yunnan, pork from Japan, chitterlings from Spain… The signature water-boiled black pearl fish uses a green chilli and pork bone stock that doesn’t look red or oily like traditional ones; the freshwater fish with springy flesh also adds to the texture and flavour. The chitterlings with mixed chillies are addictively tasty.