Don’t be fooled by the name of this restaurant within Great Fosters hotel – you don’t see a ‘pass’, nor are you in the heart of the kitchen; instead, the chefs deliver and explain each dish and so aim to “bring some of the excitement and theatre of the pass into the restaurant”. There are just seven tables in the traditionally decorated room, for what is essentially a surprise menu; it offers a natural progression of tastes and tones, and is made up of detailed and elegant compositions that are both sophisticated and satisfying.