In a long, narrow interior, where black leatherette benches meet exposed stone, Stéphane Léger, former Michelin-starred chef, regales us with his Burgundian cuisine and dishes with a Mediterranean edge. Gently poached eggs in a chardonnay-based meurette sauce, slow-cooked bœuf bourguignon, snails, but also carpaccio of Palamos gambas, or monkfish bouillabaisse.